aboutWe are Akila and Patrick. Our minds (and waistlines) expand as we travel, cook, and eat our way around the world with our two dogs.

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food unites
south african cuisine

South African flags 

Flags hanging in a mall in Durban

Before I went on my blogger break last month, I wrote about our experiences traveling as an interracial couple in South Africa.  The comments astounded me. 

Street dancers in Durban

Street dancers in Durban

Many shared their honest and sad stories about experiencing discrimination both at home and abroad.  Several were sneered at, pointed at, or treated rudely because they were with a person of a different race.  Amy, a fellow round-the-world traveler, mentioned that the only time she and her husband saw mixed races in South Africa was when a black police officer and a white police officer joined forces to shake them down for a bribe. 

Dancer South Africa Dancer in South Africa
Dancer in South Africa Dancer in South Africa

Dancer in South Africa

I would love to believe that these are isolated experiences.  I would love to defend Alabama---my home state---because a restaurant refused to serve Sherryl and her boyfriend, and to defend India---my motherland---for the astonishingly sad experiences of Ekua, a Ghanian-American woman traveling solo.  And, though I am a glass-half-full-kind of girl, sometimes the hatred that seeps from others disheartens me.  

Market in South Africa

And, then, I shake myself and remind myself that this world is a good place and there are good people here.  I remember that differences are not insurmountable.  I know this because I have seen South Africa's food.

Victoria Market bread Pineapples
Mall in Durban Mall in Durban
Calves heads Victoria Market Victoria Market spieces

Scenes from Victoria Market

There are so many things that divide us: not just the biggies like race, religion, and language, but also minor things like the type of clothes we wear, the way we say certain words, or the types of activities we like.  But, food is the great uniter.  Everyone everywhere eats.

Kebabs with french fries

Tandoori kebabs with french fries (!)

I can think of no better place to explore that phenomena than in South Africa where the food melds tribal African, Dutch, English, Malay, and Indian cuisines.  Take, for example, these lovely tandoori kebabs served at an Indian restaurant with a helping of french fries.

Bunny chow

Vegetarian bunny chow

Or, take THE Durban contribution to South African cuisine: bunny chow, a fast food dish consisting of spicy vegetable or meat curry ladled into a hollowed out half-loaf of bread.  Fifty years ago, the bunny was the food of the Indian workers, forced to eat with minimal lunch breaks; today, restaurants are packed with eager middle-class families eager to indulge in their favorite Durban delicacy.

Mutton bunny chow

Chicken bunny chow

We tear the edges off the bland bread at the unassuming Oriental Restaurant at the Workshop in Durban, which most agree serves the best bunny in the city.  We dip the bread into the steamy, spicy curry, leaving our fingers stained turmeric yellow. 

Bobotie

Bobotie

Or, you can find bobotie in the Cape region, a mixture of minced meat with an egg custard topping, often served with a spicy sambal or papad.  Inspired by the Indonesian bobotok, Malay slaves and later Malay servants cooked bobotie in the kerrie-kerrie (curry) shops on the streets of the Cape Peninsula, during an Apartheid regime when English and Dutch cuisine were favored to the exclusion of all other food.

Malva pudding

Malva pudding

That Dutch influence led to some wonderful recipes in their own right, such as malva pudding.  It is one of the true travesties of American cuisine that our version of pudding cannot hold even a miniature candle to continental puddings, especially those in South Africa and England.  In those countries, pudding is basically a sweet moist cake, usually served with a creamy custard; popular examples are sticky toffee pudding, rum raisin pudding, and chocolate pudding.  The Cape Region's malva pudding is usually flavored with apricot jam and served with Malvacea madeira wine (hence the name of the dessert).

It's not uncommon to have a meal of bobotie or bunny chow followed directly up with malva pudding as dessert.  Sounds like the perfect combination of diversity and deliciousness, doesn't it?

06/06/2011 23:33
Colourful pics and interesting post.. One integration which clearly stood out for me is of the colourful flowers, Indian style, with a zebra skin (trust that is faux) hanging over it....
Shilpi Banerjee's recent blog post: Lemon bliss cake and Chocolate chip brownies
06/12/2011 19:12
Shilpi, The zebra skin is actually probably real. In South Africa, there is a lot of game hunting.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/07/2011 02:14
I love your posts about food. You have a great talent at describing dishes, and most importantly, your photos serve the purpose of making me want to lick the screen.....

Denise
06/12/2011 19:14
Denise, thanks so much! I really really appreciate that.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/07/2011 08:46
I just realized after reading this post that the food of SA is RARELY talked about, it's always the beaches and safaris. However, I had one amazing meal after another while I was there. Awesome shots like always!
Andi of My Beautiful Adventures's recent blog post: My Wedding & Honeymoon: Day 1 (Part 1)
06/12/2011 19:16
Thank you Andi! The food in SA is actually really, really good . . . very fresh and an incredible diversity of cuisine. I think you would love it.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/07/2011 10:49
Wow,it all looks so good. Love the photo of the fruits in the market. Def makes me want to go to South Africa!
06/12/2011 19:24
Thanks Petina! The markets are wonderful.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/07/2011 18:42
Some of the best food I've had traveling internationally was in South Africa last year--a fact that absolutely astounded me. Scott and I lived in Holland for a spell, and the food there was downright horrid (all of the good "Dutch" food is international like Surinamese or Ethiopian) so it's funny that Dutch-influenced food should be so tasty. This makes me doubly excited to return to South Africa in September!

(I pretty much ate malva pudding at the conclusion of every meal.)
Camels & Chocolate's recent blog post: Home on the Range
06/12/2011 19:26
Absolutely agree with you. The food in SA is unbelievable and it's such an interesting fusion of so many different cultures and cuisines.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/08/2011 02:27
very interesting. Indeed the food is the great unifier.
Mayank's recent blog post: Portrait of a Juice Seller
06/12/2011 19:10
Mayank, thanks!
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/08/2011 19:41
Andi is totally right about food not really being mentioned when it comes to South Africa. The food of South Africa has been a mystery to me. Thanks for sharing this!

And you're right, the world is largely a good place which is why I don't let a few bad experiences keep me from exploring!
Ekua's recent blog post: Take Me Back to Old Havana
06/12/2011 19:06
Ekua, I'll be doing several more posts about South African food so I'm glad that I'll be sharing more delicious info. :)
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/08/2011 20:37
Beautifully articulate, Akila. There's a reason we're drawn to food as we travel, and it's not /just/ the flavor... :)
Christy @ Technosyncratic's recent blog post: The Sea Spirit House in Yachats, OR
06/12/2011 19:02
Thank you so much Christy! The taste is definitely part of it but there is something fundamental to food.
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/10/2011 23:03
You are so right when you say that ?food is the great uniter?. We all have to eat and food is often the first thing about another culture that is accepted into the mainstream and then celebrated for its difference rather than scorned for it.
Great photos of the market too. What do they do with the cow?s heads?
Bianca @ Day Jaunts's recent blog post: Geelong ? Mr Hyde
06/12/2011 18:57
Bianca, I'm not entirely sure what they do with the cow heads but we saw them in a variety of places. Maybe they use them for stock?
Akila's recent blog post: food unites in south africa
06/27/2011 20:00
We found the food in SA very sweet actually..(our trip being v limited to just kruger, graskop and j'burg)... being Indians, our food as it is, is pretty sweet .. but the food here was unbearably sweet.. we went to a pizza outlet and our mouths were drooling when we saw this triple deckered chicken pizza -- but when we took a bite, we literally jumped from our seats as it was slathered with sweet real sweet chilli sauce... we had dinner one day at the skukuza camp... the sweet potato curry, the pork curry everything was sweet.. think they have a sweet tooth .. we were initially disappointed and then we found three great places.. one is Canimambo restaurant at Graskop serving portugese food... Milly's restaurant on the way from Sudwala to J'burg, on the N4 highway.. real fresh trout... and the third was Tribes african grill at Emperor's palace in J'burg (kempton park, near the airport).. and boy oh boy -- the portions here are massive !!!
Shilpi Banerjee's recent blog post: Lemon bliss cake and Chocolate chip brownies
06/29/2011 14:38
Hmm, that's interesting because we didn't find the food that sweet but maybe we went to different places than you. We noticed that the ketchup was really sweet, though. I'm glad you found some good places to eat, and, yes, the portions are HUGE in South Africa (almost large enough to rival the U.S.).
Akila's recent blog post: waffle house south africa
06/29/2011 02:52
Really a treat for the eyes and the taste buds! I agree in totality with you about your comment of food being the great uniting force. Like they say, ?the way to a man?s heart is through his stomach? let South African food help in uniting the different races and make our world free from the scorching heat of racial discrimination. Let?s keep the first step forward for a better tomorrow ?
06/29/2011 14:31
Thank you! I hope that the food does continue to unite differences.
Akila's recent blog post: waffle house south africa

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